Do you want to dress up as your favorite anime character for cosplay but can’t seem to get your costume right? One of the hardest things to do with a costume is to make the collar stand up all throughout the event. However, with the right materials and some stitching, you can easily achieve a stand-up collar for your costume.
Don’t know how to stitch? No problem, you don’t need to be an expert in sewing to achieve a standing collar for cosplay. A sewing machine is not even necessary if you don’t own one or have no idea how to use it. So, here’s a simple way to do the trick.
Step-by-Step Guide On Making A Stand Up Collar
Step 1: Gather all the materials for your standing collar
Before you start with your project, it’s best to collect all the necessary materials so you can finish your stand-up collar fast and with no interruptions. Below are all the materials needed:
- Jewelry Wire
Before we proceed with step two, let’s discuss first what interfacing is in case you have no idea what it is. Interfacing is basically a material designed to help stabilize and stiffen a fabric. Most of the time, there will be dots of glue on one of its sides. These dots are used to attach the interfacing to the fabric. You’ve probably encountered it with some of your clothing since it is commonly used on sleeve cuffs, collars, and jacket. It is used to make the fabric look firm and stiff, and also to prevent wear and tear.
How To Choose Your Interfacing
Interfacing comes in different densities. It can be a very thin or thick layer that can add shape to a fabric. Some can be extremely thick that they are difficult to bend. If you are planning to make a collar stand up to at least 1 to 2 inches, then use thicker interfacing. You can purchase them online, craft shops, and fabric stores.
When you purchase fabric interfacing, you’ll find fusible or sew-in interfacing. Sew-in interfacing is attached to the primary fabric like an ordinary layer of fabric. It is stitched into the main fabric to be kept in place. Between fusible and sew-in interfacing, the latter results in a more natural drape and shape. It is not as stiff as fusible interfacing.
Fusible interfacing on the other hand is covered with small dots on one side. These dots are made of glue that will stick to the fabric when heat is applied. The glue dots will bond permanently to the main fabric when ironed because of the combination of steam and heat. Most beginners prefer to use fusible interfacing since it is easier to use. Also, it is a better option when working with thicker interfacing. While it is easier to work with, you should be careful when working with fusible interfacing as it is not suitable for some types of fabric. Avoid using fusible interfacing for fabrics that are very textured, heat-sensitive, napped fabrics such as fur or velvet, and those with loose weave like mesh and lace.
Step 2: Cut your interfacing and collar
If you are following a pattern piece, make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have your own collar design, cut it out from your costume fabric. Don’t forget to cut two pieces for each collar because you need to put the interfacing in between the collar pieces. If you are following a pattern, you can use pins to keep the pattern and fabric in place while you cut it.
Once you’ve cut the collar pieces, cut a piece of your interfacing. This will then be fused or stitched between the collar pieces. If you decided to go with sewn-in interfacing and are using thick interfacing, make sure to leave some seam allowance. To do this, trim or cut at least 1/4 inch from the whole border of the interfacing. This will help make it easier for you to sew the collar together. This way you won’t have to sew through your thick interfacing.
Step 3: Iron or sew your interfacing between your collar pieces
If you are using fusible interfacing, don’t forget to iron the fabric collar pieces first. Then line up your interfacing with the inside part of the fabric or the wrong side of your fabric. The interfacing should be faced down with the glue dots facing the fabric. Get a cloth that is slightly damp and place it over the interfacing. The moisture from the damp cloth will prevent the cloth from burning. Get your iron, press it on the damp cloth and hold the iron for about 30 seconds. Always begin at one end of your collar and press and hold your iron. After 30 seconds, lift the iron and move on to the next spot until you have covered the whole collar. Check the collar and make sure the interfacing and fabric have fused. If there are parts where the interfacing is not properly glued to the fabric, repeat the process.
If you are using sewn-in interfacing, leave a small room between the stitching and interfacing. Just enough space to insert the thin wire.
Step 4: Sew the collar together
After you have fused or sewn the interfacing, sew the collars together with the right sides facing up. This will prevent sewing the bottom edge of your collar pieces. After that, flip the collar out. To make the collars pointy, use a pin and pull the corners. Now, flatten the seam by ironing your collar piece.
Step 5: Add your thin wire
This part will depend on the shape and size of your collar. There is no need to add a wire if your collar will not be higher than your chin or if you are not looking for a flared look on your collar. But if it is, then you need to get the right measurement of your wire. To get the right measurement, lay the wire flat on the outer seam of the collar. Make sure to add at least 1-2 inches on both ends. You will need this when you attach the collar to your t-shirt or costume. Insert the wire on the collar’s inside, from the small amount of space you left behind earlier, ensure that it lays flat on the fabric. You need to do some stitching to keep the wire in place. Now, you have your finished collar, and is ready to be attached to your garment.
Step 6: Attaching the collar
The last step is to attach your collar to your coat or shirt. If you are using a pattern, you can simply follow the instructions that came with it and just tuck the excess wires towards the front seam of your garment. This will help add stability to your collar.
If you created your own design and are not following a pattern, here’s how you can attach the collar. Start by sewing the outer part of your garment to the outer layer of your collar piece. Slip the wire on the front seam and stitch it to hold it in place. Doing this will make the front of your collar neckline more stable. After that, fold the inner layer of your collar. It’s recommended to fold and iron this layer firstbefore you pin it down. Lastly, stitch the last seam. You can choose to sew along all the layers but expect that the stitches will be visible. Alternatively, you can opt for hidden stitches so they won’t be visible on the outside part of your garment. Once you have attached the collar to your garment, you can bend the wire to achieve your desired collar shape.
The great thing about this standing stand-up collar is you can easily attach it to any garment and desired costume. The wire can help you alter the different looks of your collar shape. But if you are planning to go as a vampire for your next cosplay, here’s how to do it.
How To Make A Vampire Cape with Standing Collar
- Black fabric
- Fabric Scissors
- Fabric shears
- Flexible tape measure
- Chalk wheel
- Fusible interfacing (heavy-weight)
- Black polyester thread
- Ballpoint pins
- Size 90 stretch needle
- Sew on snap (2.5cm)
- Decorative button
Get the measurements
It is important to get the measurements right so the costume will perfectly fit you. You need the neck measurement and the measurement from your neck to the cape’s bottom edge.
Cut the fabric for the vampire cape
Once you have your measurements, it’s time to cut the vampire cape from your fabric. Fold your black fabric from the short end with the right sides facing. You can use a circle skirt template if you want to ensure that the fabric is lined up properly. When using a circle skirt template, position it on the corner. One of the edges should be directly on the fold. The other edge should be at least 1 cm from your open edges. This will be your seam allowance.
Using your chalk, mark the 1st number’s distance on the top corner part. After that, connect the marks, this will be your cutting line for your cape’s neck. Next, mark the 2nd number’s distance and repeat the process. Secure the fabric using pins on the marked curves and edges, then cut the lines. Now, fold again the fabric and repeat the process.
Make the stand up collar
Get your heavy-weight fusible interfacing and fold it. Ensure the sticky side are facing. There should be at least 20cm of the side of the paper facing up. Fold the interfacing again but on the other way. You should get a 20×20 cm square. Next, get the neck curve on the square and match up the edges on the interfacing square edges and trace it using your pen.
From the neck curve, mark 6 cm then connect them and pin the layers together. Cut along the two lines. Open the interfacing upwards so you’ll get a half-circle. From the center, mark 1 cm on one fold then draw a line; it should be around 45 degrees angle. Cut along the line and on the marked 1 cm seam allowance. Find the big piece of interfacing and fold it, the sides with glue dots facing up. Place the piece of the half-circle into the fold and trace it then cut it.
You now have 2 circles. Place the sticky side down on the inner part of the fabric and iron both circles. Cut the fabric in the inner circle then leave 1 cm from the remaining edges. Pin your collars together and sew the circle’s outer part. Remember not to stitch the center circle.
Attach the collar to your vampire cape
Get the two cape pieces and join them together by lining up the edge of each cape. Pin and sew straight going down, leaving 1 cm seam allowance. Fold your collar and pin the fold. Lay flat the vampire cape, the right side facing up. Find the center seam and line up the pin so you can pin them together. Pin the collar up to the cape’s neck then sew them in the pinned curve. Remember to leave a 1 cm allowance.
Now flip the collar, this time the seam allowances should be facing down along the cloak. Then sew them using topstitch. There should be at least 1cm of your cloak fabric that is sticking out.
Add the final touches
Depending on the type of fabric you use, there’s a tendency that it may fray. When this happens, sew the raw edges with an overlocker or zig-zag stitches.
From the cloak fabric that is sticking out, fold the fabric edges by 1 cm and sew them. Do this on the two straight edges and also on the curved bottom. If you are using a stretchy type of fabric, it would be easier to sew the curved hem.
Overlay the ends of the collar so it nicely fits around your neck. Make a mark on both ends, this is where you’ll stitch the snap. To cover up the stitches, sew a decorative button over it. Now you’re ready to try on your vampire cloak with standing collars.
Tips on Making the Perfect Stand Up Collar
- Use the right fabric
- Use the right interfacing and make sure it is suitable for the fabric
- Get the measurement right, especially the length
- Always leave seam allowances of at least 1 cm
- If you are using a pattern, make sure to always follow the steps in the instructions included in the package
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you make a stand-up cape collar?
The materials that you need to make a stand-up cape collar are paper, pencil, ruler, craft foam, heavyweight interfacing, sewing machine, needle, and thread.
The first step is to make a pattern by measuring around the back of the cape from one end of the shoulder seam to another. Then draw a rectangle shape with that length and the width should be 8 inches. Extend 2 inches at the top of the rectangle for every side. Connect the outside ends by drawing a line to the new lines to the base corner of the rectangle. The next step is to trace the pattern onto the craft foam. Then cut out the collar. After that, you need to sew the cape to the collar. Make sure that you keep the cape exactly upright to the collar as you sew. Keeping it perpendicular will make the collar stand up.
How do you make a ruffle collar stand up?
The first step is to cut each layer of fabric to the length you want and stack the layers together. Fold the fabric in half. Use safety pins or clips to secure it. Stitch about half an inch away from the folded edge. Then thread your ribbon through the casing. There is no need to gather; you can make a simple straight stitch or use a sewing machine to sew it straight. Next is to adjust the ruffles by tying the ribbon at the back. Cut the ribbon to the length that you want. Lastly, fluff up the collar and you now have a straightforward ruffle collar. The materials used in this simple DIY are a sewing machine or needle, safety pins or clips, and your choice of fabric.
Another easy way to make a ruffle collar stand up is by doing these simple steps. First, prepare the materials which are the sewing machine, thread, and fabric. The first thing you do is to fold a strap of fabric in half. Then stitch basting line one and a half inches apart. Pull on the bobby threads to gather and you now have a stand-up ruffle collar.
How do you make fabric stand up straight?
There are many ways to make fabric stand up straight. You can do interfacing, boning, or by using fabric stiffeners. Some of the most popular DIY fabric stiffeners are wood glue, cornflour and starch, and gelatine. All these ingredients should be mixed with water to create a stiffening solution that can make your fabric hard to let it stand up straight.
Are you ready to create your very own stand-up collar for your next cosplay costume? Whether you’re going for an anime character or a vampire, making a stand-up collar is fairly simple. You don’t need special skills to do it. If you think you can’t create your own collar design, you can always use collar patterns that you can purchase online or at craft stores.